Notes Mark 1 had a certain charm. It showed the newly arrived
Bryson falling in love with 1970’s UK, rather remarkably given the many things
he found profoundly wrong with the country, from its racist television
programmes to its appalling customer service. A lot has changed since Notes
Mark 1, and while Bryson clearly realises that revisiting the poorly remembered scenes
of his first trip round the country is a mistake, he does it anyway. At least,
he takes the trip after a fashion, although the visits to various locations are
completely haphazard, fitted in around his busy schedule of readings and family
commitments, giving the book a very fragmented flavour.
Some reviewers have been appalled at Bryson’s grumpiness at
what he finds, and they have a point. But Notes Mark 1 found much to be grumpy
about first time round, and the second time round the block he finds many things
much improved. Inevitably much has also deteriorated, and many of Bryson’s
complaints will be familiar – poor customer service, the loss of individual
high street shops, green belt development, and so on. If this was all the book
consisted of – a long whine about how things were so much better in the good
old days – then I doubt I would have ever made it to the end, completist though
I am. (Word doesn’t recognise that word, which is strange as it is in lots of
online dictionaries. Go away red-underlining. Clicks ignore. That’s better). But
happily there is more. Bryson has a wide range of anecdotes to tell about the
places he visits, and some of these are entertaining and informative. I suspect his working method is something along the lines of telling a researcher
he is going to Telford (or wherever) the following week, and asking them to come up with some
interesting “QI” style facts about the town and its inhabitants, which he can
then discover on location.
Now here is something slightly interesting – the American
version of this book has a different subtitle, to whit “Adventures of an
American in Britain”. This is wrong in several ways – Bryson isn’t an American,
having taken British citizenship recently as explained in the book. He
certainly doesn’t have any adventures – unless you call walking rainy streets
looking for something to do, finding a discarded newspaper in the corner of a
dingy backstreet pub, flicking through it, giving us one or two headlines, then
retiring for a curry somewhere, adventurous. Bryson does little to disguise the
fact that he often finds the whole exercise quite boring, and wishes it were
over and he could go back to his family. In between all the nonsense, Bryson occasionally has something interesting to say about the changes he sees in the country, best described here:
“It was known as the
Sick Man of Europe. It was in every way poorer than now. Yet there were
flowerbeds on roundabouts, libraries and post offices in every village, cottage
hospitals in abundance, council housing for all who needed it. It was a country
so comfortable and enlightened that hospitals maintained cricket pitches for
their staff and mental patients lived in Victorian palaces. If we could afford
it then, why not now? Someone needs to explain to me how it is that the richer
Britain gets the poorer it thinks itself.”
Well said – only disappointing that he doesn’t follow this
through to its inevitable conclusion about the way money is spent in this green
and pleasant land. There are also occasional glimpses of genuine wit, even if these stand out by their isolation, such as:
“According to Time Out magazine, at any given moment there are 600,000 people on the Underground, making it both a larger and more interesting place than Oslo.”
I'll keep reading Bill Bryson, because I always feel slightly virtuous when doing so, but I am not sure I am ever going to enjoy him in the way I did when we were both a bit younger.
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